Clearly Changed Hoodie - a classic gansey hoodie knitting pattern

Clearly Changed is a cozy cropped sweater, and is your modrn update to the classic Gansey style. The design is well suited to solid and semi-solid light colors to highlight the texture. Make your Clearly your own with cropped and full length instructions, and optional hood, and bust darts in four sizes, for a layer that's both warm enough for winter and light enough for spring.

Clearly features an all-over gansey design that extends through the sleeves and hood. Sewn tubular bind off creates a finely finished edge, while the pointed hood adds whimsy to this very practical design. 

Construction

Clearly is knit in the round from the bottom up, then the lower body and sleeves are worked separately and joined for the raglan yoke. The sts for the optional hood are picked up around the neck and grafted together with kitchener stitch. The trim is then worked around the hood and neck edge and finished with a sewn tubular bind off.

Optional Bust Shaping

Optional instructions for adding short rows for bust shaping, in four sizes, give you your best fit.

Sizes

1 (2, 3, 4) [5, 6, 7] (8, 9, 10)

Finished bust circumference: 34.5 (38.5, 42.5, 46.5) [50.5, 54.5, 58.5] (62.5, 66.5, 70.5) inches / 86.5 (96.5, 106.5, 116.5) [126.5, 136.5, 146.5] (156.5, 166.5, 176.5) cm

Finished upper arm circumference: 10.5 (11.5, 13.25, 14.5) [15.5, 17 18.5] (20, 21.5, 22.5) inches / 26.5 (29, 33.5, 36.5) [39, 42.5, 46.5] (50, 54, 56.5) cm

Download the full schematic here.

Your best fit

Choose the size closest to your actual upper chest measurement: 29.75 (33.75, 37.75, 40.75) [43.25, 46, 49] (52, 55, 58) inches / 75.5 (85.5, 96, 103.5) [110, 117, 124.5] (132, 139.5, 147.5) cm.

Upper chest is measured above the full bust, at an angle close to diagonal beneath the underarms, and straight across the back.

Clearly is designed to fit with approximately 4.5 inches / 11.5 cm of positive ease at the fullest part of your bust, and 1 inch / 2.5 cm of positive ease at the upper arm.

If you need additional room for the bust, working the optional short row shaping will give you the best fit in the shoulders and armholes, while still making room for your chest. Short rows add length to the front only of the garment, so that the hem does not rise in the front.

Elizabeth is wearing size 2, cup 1 with modified sleeves, with 2 inches / 5 cm of positive ease at the full bust and 1 inch / 2.5 cm of negative ease at the upper arm. Her upper chest is 34.5 inches / 86.5 cm and she is 5'3" / 157.5 cm tall.

Yarn

Sample shown in Forest Lane Fiber Co. Rambouillet Sport

100% non-superwash wool ; 355 yds / 324 m per 100 g skein. This is a 2 ply, woolen spun sport weight yarn. The final fabric is rustic with crisp stitch definition.

Cropped Yardage (shown in Portobello): 945 (1025, 1145, 1245) [1345, 1470, 1555] (1665, 1805, 1915) yds / 865 (935, 1045, 1140) [1230, 1340, 1425] (1525, 1650, 1750) m; 3 (3, 4, 4) [4, 5, 5] (5, 6, 6) skeins.

Full Length Yardage: 1085 (1180, 1315, 1430) [1550, 1685, 1790] (195, 2070, 2195) yards / 990 (1080, 1200, 1310) [1415, 1540, 1635] (1750, 1890, 2005) m ; 4 (4, 4, 5) [5, 5, 6] (6, 6, 7) skeins.

If you are working the optional bust shaping, you will need an additional 20 - 130 yards / 20 - 120 m.

Gauge

24 sts and 32 rows over 4 inches / 10 cm in Diamond Gansey Stitch (both falt and in the round) with size A needles.

Needles

Size A: US 2 / 2.75 mm
Size B (for optional tubular cast-on: US 1 / 2.25 mm

Notions

• 10 Stitch markers, including one unique marker for the beginning of the round and at least 2 removable
• Tapestry needle
• Waste yarn or stitch holder
• Warn yarn in a contrasting color (for optional tubular cast-on)

Techniques

• Tubular cast-on (optional)
• Picking up and knitting
  
• Sewn tubular bind-off
  
• German short rows

Credits

Tech edit: Annie Lin
Photography: Source Creative House
Model: Elizabeth Margaret