Jen here!

I've talked before about evaluating knitting patterns (in fact, there's another whole article on it), but today let's dig specifically into raglans.

Will your raglan sweater look like the sweater in the picture?

My first check is always to see if a pattern has been well-graded to a size-inclusive range. Why? Because if it has, I can expect the sweater I knit to look like the one in the sample, no matter what size I knit.

We'll be talking about schematics as we go, if you'd like to have one in front of you, you can grab this pattern preview of Sunup on 82nd.

Is the raglan pattern written for a broad range of sizes?

I vote my values with my dollars, and we are both very passionate about size inclusion. The very first thing I do is make sure that all of my friends will be able to knit the pattern for their bodies.

✅ Check to make sure the pattern is sized to fit a full bust of at least 30-60 inches. 

Checking to see if the raglan pattern is well-graded

Offering patterns that cover the full size range doesn't mean the pattern is  actually well-graded to FIT those sizes. 

I start with a spot-check on yoke depth and neck width. If these measurements don't behave as expected, they're a good predictor that the pattern will not be well-graded.

When stitches add length: raglans are special

In most sweaters, stitches = widths and rows = lengths. Raglans have a "yes, and."

The stitches at the top of the sleeve - the shoulder stitches at the neckline - contribute to front and back neck depth. Because the sleeves sit evenly on the top of the shoulder, half of that width goes to the front, and half to the back.

Photo: Shoulder stitches contribute important depth, both for the neck and the yoke.

Raglan depth is the number of rows worked from the very top to the split for the arms. It's a vertical length measurement.

By putting together the length from 1/2 of the shoulder stitches and all of the length created by working rows between the neck and the underarm, we arrive at yoke depth.

Yoke depth should change across the range, but it shouldn't change by much - we are not taller just because we are bigger!

✅ Look for no more than ~ 3.5" of change from the smallest to largest size.

Ex: If a pattern has a yoke depth that's 6" in the lowest size and 12" in the largest size? That's a big red flag.

Check the neck width

Likewise, the smallest size in our size chart has a neck width of 5.25", and the largest a neck width of 7.95", a change of less than 3". Stitch repeats can influence the final garment dimensions, but keep that in mind as you check your pattern's schematic.

✅ Look for no more than ~ 3" of change in neck width across the range.

What if the schematic isn't available or doesn't have these measurements?

Including a robust schematic that makers can view before they make a purchase is part of running a size-inclusive business. I personally do not buy patterns unless I can see what I'm embarking on.

If it's not there? Ask for it. Send the designer or publisher an email, and ask for the schematic. It's okay to name the specific dimensions you're looking for.

You deserve the dimensions of the thing you're going to make before you buy it. You get that when you invest $5 in clearance fast fashion, and you should get it when you're contemplating investing dozens of hours, money for a pattern, and yarn.

✅ If there is no schematic, ask for one.

Social anxiety kicking in? Designers sell more patterns when their products meet makers' needs, so we would expect them to want to hear from us when we share our needs with them, right? So if you're worried about them thinking something ugly about you or responding badly - is that someone you want to buy from anyway?

You need a place to put the front of your neck

Photo: I'm wearing my Sunup on an early fall day. I wanted to capture the rich texture and beautiful finish of the tubular bind-off I like to use (and yes, instructions are included in each pattern). You may also spot another feature we bake into our patterns - we hate a rippling, gappy neckline, so if we're working ribbing on a curve, you can expect to see some shaping in the ribbing itself. Little details make big impact!

We have a whole separate article on this topic, and another on how to fix it, so let's just hit the high notes here!

How do you figure out front neck depth?

As you're evaluating a pattern, check the schematic and make sure you have adequate clearance in the front neck depth. If this measurement isn't on the schematic, you may need to grab the cast on numbers and gauge and to peek at the pattern instructions.

Remember what we learned earlier - you'll start with the depth automatically created by the shoulder stitches. To that, add the short rows worked (if working the neckline in the round), or rows until the front neck is joined (if working the neckline flat). Do not consider ribbing or other trim as you run this evaluation.

How much front neck depth does my raglan need?

Only you know what you like! You can use other garments that you have as a basis. Personally, I look for a minimum of 4.5", which once I work an inch of trim is 3.5" - a standard crew depth.

Note: You can see some visual illustrations on front neck depth by visiting this stories highlight on my Instagram.

This is written for circular-yoke sweaters so you won't need the geometry, but these are some of the best visuals I've done on understanding this measurement and what it does 😅 Just hold your finger down to pause so you have time to take them in.

Photo: Sunup on 82nd is a scoop neck, so you know you'll have clearance for the front of your neck!

Don't forget the back neck!

Our necks are round, which means that we need a little scoop out of the back for our necks too. Because the shoulders in our raglans contribute depth to both the front and the back, we don't usually need to work back neck shaping. You know I have a caveat though!

Photo: Sunup on 82nd has a back neck depth of 1 - 1.5", so we don't need to work any adjustments.

There are two times when we need to evaluate the back neck depth to make sure we'll have enough room.

• If you are knitting a small size, your designer may have overlooked how shallow the back neck will be as a result of having fewer shoulder stitches, and
• Designs that have very narrow top sleeves for all sizes may not have enough depth across the board.

Most knitters will be comfortable if they have at least 1" of back neck depth. For more specific advice,check out that article about raglan neck shaping, here.

✅ Make sure you have enough room for your neck: I look for a minimum of 4.5" in the front and 1" in the back.

To stay on, it's got to be body-shaped

I don't like a tight knit. But I also don't want it slumping off my shoulders or riding back. If a top is loose in all the key fit points (neck width, back neck depth, underarm, upper arm, and bust), it's going to be sloshing around.

A sweater has to be body-shaped enough to stay on. That means that the sweater has to be close to at least some of the fit points. Which ones and how close depend on your build and the sweater's construction, but when I'm looking at raglans specifically, I'm checking for:

✅ Yoke depth approximately 2" deeper than my armscye.

✅ Back neck less than 60% of my cross shoulder (Sunup is graded to be about 30%).

I hope this deep-dive has been fun!

For many of us, raglans are our go-to for relaxed comfort. Having confidence that your finished sweater will fit you, feel great, and look the way you imagine it makes the process so rewarding and satisfying.

If you have any questions or want to share YOUR experiences, feel free to add to the conversation in the comments!

XOX,

Jen